Without A Map Rotating Header Image

traveling to the Middle East

Backpackers in Bethlehem

Nov 17th, 2010
by admin.
No comments yet

After 15 days living in Bethlehem, I hosted a couple of backpackers for the Eid holiday, Kyle and Kim. Kyle is a guy from Florida with lots of questions. He’s tall with shaggy hair and a resonating voice. He loves coffee. Kim is from Belgium. She’s quiet, short and looked gorgeous even after waking up from a nap with the friendly mosquitos that have taken over my apartment.

It was their first time in the West Bank and Kyle’s curiosity and frustration was apparent. His recent experience staying at a kibbutz left him with more questions and the sense that people didn’t want to talk about the conflict.

Feeling daunted by the task of answering all his questions fairly, I did what anyone else would do in this situation. I threw a dinner party with the few friends I have in Bethlehem: two Americans, a Canadian and a woman from Belgium.

We sat in the living room, ate creamy pasta, salad and garlic bread (made by slapping butter and freshly chopped garlic onto pita bread), drank Taybeh beer and chatted.

We talked about the hierarchical nature of ones status in Israel and the misery of the three-month tourist visa. This is issued by Israel because Palestine does not control its borders. Israeli border control cannot know that you’re living in the West Bank because they would deny you re-entry.

Kyle asked, “who’s to blame?” The resounding response was that no one party is to blame. It’s an awful situation influenced by so many countries and movements that it’s impossible to place blame anywhere.

Though the situation seems completely unsolvable, one of my dinner guests said that if international law were actually followed, a solution would be much more possible. Instead, Obama offers concessions to the Israeli government regarding settlements.

To the question “what will happen in the future?” all hands in the room went up in the air as everyone responded in near unison, “it’s impossible to say!”

But they will keep working for peace. And Palestinians, like the non-violent resisters in Tuwani, will continue to do the same.

Top 10 Middle East Travel Tips

Nov 1st, 2010
by admin.
3 comments

During a trip to Jordan and Egypt this past month, I remembered a few tips that make traveling, especially in developing countries, much easier.

10. Learn some of the local language.

“Hi, how are you,” are a great start.  Knowing numbers and how to say “where is” will prove abundantly useful.

9.  Be ready for your plans to change and the pace to be a bit slower.

You’ll still have a good time and your travel stories will be that much funnier.

8.  Bring your own toilet paper and carry it with you everywhere.

It’s good for spills, runny noses and an ill-equipped bathroom.

7.  Haggle, haggle, haggle — but don’t get flustered.

If you don’t want it, just say “No thanks” and move on.  If you do want it, figure out what it’s worth to you and begin playing the haggling game.

6.  Trust the locals — but ask more than one.

Case in point –passengers of the Queen Nefertiti ferry from Aqaba, Jordan to Nuweiba, Egypt cannot buy their ticket at the port as the Lonely Planet states.  Just a few months ago, the policy changed.  Tickets now must be bought at an office in Aqaba before passengers head to the port.  Everyone knew this, but I doubted them all at first.

5.  Once you begin arguing over the equivalent to $1, it might be time to stop haggling and relax for a bit.

Sit down and get yourself a tea, then start again with a clear head.  Do you really need that wooden elephant anyway?

4.  Sometimes a walk in the park is the best thing to do with your afternoon.

Free sights and smells and probably a handful of locals to join you.  There might even be an ice cream truck.

3. It doesn’t matter if you overpaid for something you really love — as long as you could afford it.

Who cares if you paid quadruple what a local would pay if your purchase is meaningful to you!

2.  Think beforehand about what you will do when people beg for money or food so you are prepared.

My rule of thumb – if I have food in my bag (and I usually do), I will give it away but I don’t give away money.

1.  If there is a bathroom — use it.

Even if you have to hold your nose to get through it, your body will thank you later when you’re on a bumpy bus ride (please refer to #8 to avoid additional toilet trauma!).